I don't know how long this part will last.Have a helper mark the bolt hole locations using a transfer punch. The gears on the bracket should engage the rack and the handwheel gear. Push the bracket firmly into position on the lathe. Put spacers between the mating gears so they will mesh correctly. Put some layout blue on the bracket where it touches the apron, where the 1/4" bolts will pass.This will be hard to lubricate so add some über grease to the axle now. Put the axle in the bracket and carefully press the gears onto it.When the channel intersects the axle hole you can stop. You may not even need to add the ears at all if you use long bolts. The depth of these was determined by the length of the bolts I had available. Mill the "ears" through which the 1/4" bolts will pass.The depth must be at least the thickness of the large gear and the handwheel gear. Mill away the relief for the large gear.This is likely the most important measurement. If it's too wide the gears will pinch the bracket when pressed on. On the 9-11 in the pictures above, the gears are peened on. You will need to get one of the gears off the axle. If you have a broken 9-11, you can salvage these. Acquire the large gear, small gear, and axle you see in the 9-11 pictures above.You can see the channel for the leadscrew. You can see the angled relief where the handwheel gear will fit.įinally, here's a view from below. Here's a view from the above front right, if it were in the apron. Don't do what I did - I am still trying to remedy this. Third, notice the poor fit of the large gear to the handwheel gear. Second, notice how the handwheel's small gear nestles in the angled area milled out of the bracket. That's because there is only a few mils of aluminum remaining there. First, notice the disruption of the aluminum where the axle passes through. There are three important things to note. The first image shows the bracket in place. Almost all measurements are multiples of 1/16". The only solution was to make a replacement. I decided I would not pay top dollar for an antique Zamak part with a history of breaking. Since there is such a demand for 9-11 replacements the price is pretty high. When I saw the part was missing, I checked Ebay, the easiest source for many Craftsman lathe parts. It never should have been made of Zamak, or at least not with this shape. The problem is this is a spindly part that gets a lot of lateral pressure applied to it. The lathe's original owner bought it without knowing that it fit a later model of the lathe. This one doesn't fit my lathe, unfortunately. Refer to the "page 2" link - you can find part 9-11 at the bottom. Here's a link to a document for my lathe. When part 9-11 breaks, and it will, parts fall out the bottom of the apron and your carriage gets all sad. When you turn the handwheel, the carriage should move up and down the lathe bed. And that is part 9-11, a housing that holds secure the pinion that connects the handwheel on the apron to rack. There is one part, however, where the use of Zamak was downright egregious. If a handle breaks after 70 years of use, well, you have a lathe, make another. For example, when I bought my lathe the cross slide handwheel had been replaced with a water spigot knob.īut really, for the most part, the Zamak is ok. It's common to see Craftsman lathes will all manner of innovative replacements for broken Zamak parts. Now the main assumption of Zamak - that replacement parts would be readily available and inexpensive - has become invalid. When Atlas stopped making these lathes, inexpensive Zamak replacement parts largely disappeared too. The Zamak parts broke much easier than their iron counterparts. Many common parts do very well when made of Zamac. It's stable, easy to cast, and plates well. Zamak, being an amalgam of zinc, aluminum, manganese, and copper is a reasonably durable alloy. The idea was that die casting these parts from Zamak would save money and machining time. One of the innovations employed in manufacture of this lathe was the use of a material called Zamak for many of the secondary parts such as change gears and handles.
#Old craftsman lathe parts professional
This lathe was manufactured to meet a price point, not to be a professional quality lathe. The Atlas/Craftsman 12" metal lathe is a decent lathe for what it is - an entry level machine for the home shop hobbyist.